Mount The Awning To Vinyl Siding?

[Makrel]

I ordered a Awning and I have vinyl siding. Do I remove the siding and put the brackets on then re-attach the siding?

[SunSetter Dealer]

Since you have vinyl siding you can get a zip tool to unlock a piece of siding to find the studs. Here is a picture of a Zip Tool:[/b]



To properly use the zip tool to unlock a panel of vinyl siding, proceeds as follows:

 
1.Wedge the curved tip of the tool blade under the end of the overlapping panel and hook onto the back lip of the buttlock.
You can try starting at an end of the panel where you will find a slightly enlarged hole for the tool to slide into, or you can look for a somewhat loose spot in the panel joint.

2.Unlock the siding by exerting downward pressure and slide the tool along the length of the siding panel 
Sometimes you can unzip the siding with your finger once it is started with the zip tool.

3. Once you have a piece unlocked lift up the siding and try to find a joint in the plywood sheeting or a nail head. When you do find one make sure a stud is there by hammering a nail or screw. On typical house framing studs are located 16 inches on center. Always double check before you lock the siding back in.
 

If you have a foam backer you must cut out a 4"X 8" section of the foam and pack it out with wood. Most foam boards are 1/2, 3/4, 1" thick.





4. To lock the siding back in using your hand, push or pound the piece to lock it back into place. Work the piece into the lock down its length.


We use Nylon Spacers that can be purchased
Purchase Here




We position the brackets on the vinyl siding like so. In the photo we used one washer under each lag screw. You may have to use 2 under each one if you siding profile is 5/8 to 3/4 inch






If you have anymore questions please give me a call;
800-663-2131
Bill
www.UnitedWindowCo.com
Sales@SunSetterDealer.net

[Hank]

I appreciate this information.  Vinyl siding install question here. 
I am considering SunSetter to be installed onto vinyl siding.  I have two different contractors who say they will install Two Different Ways?  Which is best overall?
1.Dealer 1 wants to take some of the siding off and put on a Header Board, attached to the house studs and then attach the awning brackets to this board.  Not clear on how the appearance is of end product install or what this does to the integrity of the sidings weather break overall.
2. Dealer 2 says not to do that, "you don't want that board up there".  They do something similar to what's shown in the photos here.  They leave the vinyl siding on, find the studs and insert a triangular shaped vinyle wedge to fill the gap and then screw the awning brackets directly into the house studs.

Option 2 seems to have the advantage of not leaving a major space, gap in the weather proofing of the siding and also does not leave the question of how the end product will appear (the board) when the awning is in place.

Can anyone help me make sense of best way to install?
Thanks
Hank

[SunSetter Dealer]

Hank definitely go with option 2.

There is no need for a header board. As long as you go into the studs and shim out the bracket to fit the siding your fine.

Sunsetter recommends going over the siding and shimming. Which they show in the instructional video that comes with your awning.
Bill

[Hank]

Thanks Bill for information.  I was concerned as when I first Googled for info on this....about 10 to 1 were discussions about installing a Header board to the studs first to support the awning.  The fact that it is shown in the SunSetter instructional video makes me feel better.  I very much appreciate your input.
Hank

[Double G]

Hello Bill,

great information.  I too am about to recieve my very first Sunsetter 12' motorized, cant wait.  I'm fairly handy and have a few handy friends to help install. 

My biggest concern is mounting to the Vinyl as discussed prevously.  I see what you did with the nylon spacers, however is that the best way to "shim"?  I guess so as that is how you'd install it.  it seems with that little spacer it would be stronger if the entire bracket was flush with the surface to spread out the weight (or force if there happens to be a slight breeze and movement side to side, or up and down). 
Simple physics tells me that this doesn't seem like the strongest solution.  its seems the easist way to shim, but are there other options onto thin vinyl siding other than cutting?  Please put me at ease.  thanks!

[SunSetter Dealer]

The main thing is that you have a solid base under the siding. When you unzip a piece of siding you might have a foam insulation under it. Usually the foam insulation is 3/8 to 1 1/2 thick. It is necessary to cut a section of the foam out where the bracket is going and put a piece of wood at the same thickness of the foam.
We hold the bracket on the siding so the shims will sit on the part of the siding that is touching the house.



Over the years we tried all different type of shims and the nylon washers work the best. We installed hundreds of awnings with them and never had a problem. Once you tighten the lag to the house there is no play at all on the bracket.
If you can find a different type of shim please let me know.. I would be interested
My email address is sales@unitedwindowco.com
Thanks
Bill
United Window Co.
800-663-2131

[Double G]

Great thanks Bill!  That makes sense!

[Double G]

Hello all,

I installed my Sunsetter 12' this summer and love it.  I too had the 101 questions on how to install on vinyl siding, 2 story home, how do I find the studs (impossible with a stud finder when homes are wrapped with OSB or ply). 

Using the nylon spacers was brilliant, saves the look of the exterior and works great!  Very strong,that was my main concern spacing the back of the bracket "off" the flush exterior.  But that is not an issue.  I did however buy one extra bracket and installed in the middle for peace of mind with wind/weight, but prob not nessesary.  Alls well.  can't wait until next summer to use again (I'm in Western Canada). 

Follow the Sunsetter Dealers instructions regarding the install with Nylon spacers.   I did however use some knowledgeable help from friends (ex framer) to ensure i located the 2nd Band Joist, finding those studs is near impossible, the band joist is thick and strong, and ideal hight.  I did buy smaller lag bolts as the band joist is like 1/2 to 3/4" thick only if I recall, but it is very strong ply regardless.  Awning is in solid.

[Larry]

Hello,

I will use the nylon spacers If I can find them. Went to H.D. and Lowes with no luck? If anyone recently found them plz let me know. I was thinking of also somehow adding maybe pieces of wood behind the siding by the brackets, so there will not be a bowing effect.  Anyone know if its necessary? Thanks for any input.

[SunSetter Dealer]

Larry we have them for sale  Click on the Purchase Here

Purchase Here


Any questions feel free to call me.
Bill
United Window Co.
800-663-2131

[neilk]

the instructions here and the tips to use the nylon spacer were very very helpful and I want to thank you for providing such great tips. It made my installation very easy and the long 20 foot awning went up nicely. Imagine the weight of the 20 foot awning. Even a small error could have cost us a lot.

thanks guys for posting this very useful way of installing the awning bracket.

[eztimes]

Another installation method option.

My Vinyl siding was installed over Masonite siding with extra sheets of insulation added. The result was 2 1/2 inches of less then 100% solid space between the band board and the out side surface of the vinyl siding. With nylon spacers if the lag bolts were even slightly tighten for a good fit it was depressing the siding around the bracket (type of siding installation were you can push it in a 1/2 inch -- bad choice by me -- on the flat surface). Using the 1" spacers I probably could have cut a 1+"  hole in the siding and doubled/tripled/etc.. them up but it never would have produced the same result and would have cost a lot more. My eventual solution was to drill a 3/4 " hole down to solid wood (the band board) get some "L" heavy gage 1/2" copper pipe and cut it up as bushings to fit the space exactly thereby not distorting nor even depressing the siding with the brackets on. Actually the spacers all turned out to be around 2 1/2 " to produce a near perfect fit and even when the lag bolts (used "6" - they sent 4") were tightened down good I had virtually no distortion and a very solid fit (could have been perfect if I measured and cut each bushing to fit exactly). Awning has been installed for a year now and the brackets have still not distorted the siding at all.

[Bill]

I have a structural question, I purchased a 12' awning that has 3 mounting brackets. My placement  of the brackets will make both end brackets end up over windows. As far as stability goes , should i be concerned?

[SunSetter Dealer]

I have a structural question, I purchased a 12' awning that has 3 mounting brackets. My placement  of the brackets will make both end brackets end up over windows. As far as stability goes , should i be concerned?

No, you should have a solid header over your window.